Up to the first pass (especially on the second day, with steeper climbing and higher altitude) I really suffered under my pack; later, carrying still was work, but ok until mid-afternoon. Also, it seemed we were the only "trekkers" who carried their stuff, instead of having it transported by horses. First, I envied these easy-going daypack-hikers, later I was glad for our independence and self-sufficience.
We never actually weighed the packs, but they must have been around 25kg each at the start (ca. 20kg, plus food, fuel and water). We had food for 14 days, cooking gear including 2l of kerosene, two tents, sleeping bags and mattress, clothing, and all sorts of small stuff, since we could not deposit anything of our luggage (but it would not have made much of a difference - maybe I could have done without my white shirt...)
Since we purified water with Micropur, which needs two hours processing time, we always carried at least one liter of water per person. When the last thin creek disappeared before a pass, we'd fill our two water bags, which meant a few extra kilos.